What’s your favorite thing about bettas? Maybe it’s the way they look, act, swim, or flare?
Submit by comment below!

One visual support effort that caught my eye was as part of California’s annual Adopt-A-Beach Cleanup, over 8,000 kids gathered this summer to remove litter and create impressive aerial artwork in recognition of World Ocean Day, as part of their environmental education.

Check out the aerial art created over the years at oceanday.net: Welcome to Ocean Day!

Hikari Micro Wafers are a nice option. They are smaller than the usual pellet and fish such as Tetras can even eat them.  I feed my Harlequin Rasboras these a few times a week and they eat them in one bite and never spit them out (which can be a sign the food is too large).

While they do sink, it isn’t as quickly as some other foods and it gives the top dwelling fish a chance to eat them.  The micro wafters that do make it to the bottom are enjoyed by various types of Cory Catfish in my tanks.  I’ve never seen a betta that wouldn’t eat this type of fish food either.

Some of the benefits of feeding your fish Hikari Micro Wafers include:

• Promotes superior growth and overall health
• A miniature (micro) wafer developed specifically for most tropical fish to easily devour — designed for all small and medium sized tropical fish especially tetras, livebearers, Cichlids and Catfishes.
• A complete and balanced combination of premium proteins
• Contains Vitamin A, C, D3, E
• Rich in Spirulina and Astaxanthin to promote vivid coloration
• Expect improved water quality over flake feeding

Guaranteed Nutritional Analysis
Crude Protein 44% min
Crude Fat 8% min
Crude Fiber 2% max
Moisture 10% max
Crude Ash 13% max
Phosphorus 2% min

As always, remember variety of a few different types of food in your fish’s diet is important to keep them healthy.  View other ideas of what to feed your betta or tropical fish, and the pros and cons to each type of food: Betta Food: What to Feed Your Fish

Recommended Supplies:

AquaClear is a 3-stage filter and it comes with these media inserts:

• Foam Sponge Insert (Mechanical)
• Activated Carbon Insert (Chemical)
• BioMax Insert (Biological)

Depending on your aquarium water change schedule and needs:

• Clean the foam sponge during every water change
• Replace the charcoal once a month (or more often if needed)
• Replace the BioMax every 3 months

As with any filtration system, never replace more than one of the media inserts at a time. Wait at least a few days to a week in-between replacement.

Money Saving Tip #1: You NEVER need to replace the foam sponge that comes with the filter. I’ve had mine for a few years now and it still strains the debris out of the water perfectly. Simply remove the sponge during a water change and squeeze out a few times in the old water you’ve removed from the tank until it rinses clean (do not do this in water straight from your faucet – if you must, add a few drops of water conditioner to it first). Presto, good as new! The only reason you may ever need to replace the sponge is if it becomes torn or misshaped and doesn’t properly cover the bottom of the filter. It may become discolored over time, but it will still function fine.

Money Saving Tip #2: You don’t have to give in to their marketing tactics. If you don’t want to buy the AquaClear brand replacement media packs, such as charcoal, simply make your own for a lesser cost. You can find aquatic charcoal in bulk at most major pet stores, as well as the sleeves to pack it into. Just make sure you always secure the end of any do-it-yourself media pack well so it won’t leak. Personally, I don’t mind picking up their pre-made media inserts as I find the price reasonable and appreciate the convenience, but if you’re motivated to try it on your own it’s really quite easy and will save you money in the long run.

Recommended Supplies:

This 7-page series is fun to color and you can learn a few things about fish care too!

Download the PDF file and enjoy: Healthy Betta Coloring Book Sheets

Please remember that a fish tank or decorations should never be cleaned with soap or other cleansers that may be toxic to fish. Never spray the outside of your tank with Windex or other cleaners, as the chemicals may go right into the water.

A useful method for keeping all tanks clean between water changes is a clean, unused turkey baster. This is a great tool for sucking up waste, uneaten food, and any other debris off the bottom of the tank. Always be sure to rinse with hot water when finished or before using, especially in multiple tanks.

Temperature during water changes: During water changes, it is necessary to maintain a very similar, if not exact, water temperature for the clean water as what was previously in the tank. Large temperature fluctuations can be very stressful for bettas. This is important to keep in mind also if you remove your betta from the tank and place him or her in a separate container during cleaning - this water should be the same temperature.

Before cleaning your betta’s tank, it is important to have new water prepped and ready to go. If your betta lives in an unheated bowl at room temperature, leave a container of water out for a few hours or overnight so the temperature will be the same. Always remember to add water conditioner to tap water for removal of chlorine and other harmful-to-fish elements before adding your betta to the clean tank!

If your betta lives in a heated bowl, it is still important that you obtain the same water temperature of his previous water before you replace him in the tank. If your pH and other water conditions are stable right from the tap, you can just mix the water accordingly, test with a thermometer, add water conditioner and you should be set to add your betta back. If you need to let your water ‘age’ overnight to stabilize pH or other factors, some people heat a portion of dechorinated water in the microwave and mix with room temperature water to achieve the necessary temperature.

1-gallon tank: For this size tank it is generally recommended to do a 100% complete water change once per week. However, the best way to establish a proper water change schedule is to monitor your water readings, especially ammonia level. It is crucial to your betta’s health to avoid ammonia from forming in the tank. If you detect ANY ammonia, it is time for a partial or complete water change. Ideally, you will want to get to the point where you can avoid ammonia from showing up by changing the water one day prior to detecting the toxin. The ammonia level should always stay near 0 ppm.

2-gallon+ tank: For anything larger than a 1-gallon tank, such as a 2-gallon uncycled tank, you can probably go about 2 weeks before doing a complete water change with a partial water change or two in-between. Again, make sure to watch water readings to determine the best cleaning schedule for your tank. Uneaten food and waste will raise the ammonia level in some tanks faster than in others.

Less than 1-gallon tank: For a tank smaller than 1-gallon, such as a ½-gallon bowl, a complete water change is needed about every 3 days. It is especially important to test the ammonia level frequently in a tank of this small size. Partial water changes every day to every other day are definitely a good idea. If this sounds like a bit too much work, a larger tank such as a 1-gallon tank may be a better option for you. Your betta will thank you for the extra living space also!

Cycled tank: If you have a cycled tank (with filtration system), only partial water changes will be necessary. Since you have successfully cycled the tank, you should no longer get substantial ammonia or nitrite levels, only a nitrate reading that you will want to monitor. The nitrate level should always be below 20ppm, the lower the better.

How to clean the tank (uncycled bowl or tank with no filter): Cleaning your betta’s tank involves removing the betta from the tank and placing in a special cleaning cup with cover, thoroughly rinsing plants, decorations, and substrate in hot water, and wiping down the inside of the tank. Make sure to rinse everything very well and check to make sure nothing in the tank has become damaged or sharp through wear. NEVER use soap or other cleansers to clean anything that comes in contact with your betta! Hot water is the only safe way to clean your tank, substrate, decorations, etc.

There are two main ways to remove your betta from his or her tank. One way is to use a net, catch the betta gently, and then (with your hand covering the top of the net so the betta does not jump out) carefully place in a special cleaning container that already contains fresh water treated with the proper water conditioners. Make sure to immediately place a cover over the cleaning container. Once you have finished cleaning the tank, you can either pour the betta back into the tank right from the cleaning container or again scoop him out with the net and place him back into his home. If you choose to use this method, you should purchase a Brine Shrimp Net, rather than the traditional green fish net. A brine shrimp net is made of a soft, fine mesh material that should not harm your betta’s delicate fins.

The other method for removing your betta from the tank is quick, harmless, and less stressful for your betta than using a net. For this method take a cup, such as an unused drinking glass, and wait for your betta to approach the top of the water. When the betta is near the surface, dip the cup into the water nearby the fish. This will create a vacuum that will suck both the betta and water swiftly into the cup. Quickly place a cover over the top of the cup and you are ready to clean the tank. Once you have finished, simply pour the betta and water back into the clean tank, making sure you hold your hand over the cup when you pour them out to make sure the betta does not jump. You may need a swift hand at first, but the more you practice this method the easier it gets. If necessary, you may try to entice the fish with a pellet at first, but eventually this will become unneeded.

How to clean the tank (cycled tank with filtration system): If you’ve succesfully cycled your tank, your weekly work and upkeep becomes much easier, as only partial water changes will be needed. The best way to determine when to perform partial water changes (20-25%), is to monitor your nitrate level. You always want to keep this level below 20ppm, the lower you can keep it the better. Ideally you will want to get into the habit of performing partial water changes before the nitrate reaches this level. When you perform partial water changes, it is a good idea to use a gravel vacuum to get the gunk out of the substrate.

Thank you for visiting and contributing to our fish community!

Signs of a Healthy Fish
Swims Easily
Aware of Surroundings
Eats Regularly
Good Color
Full, Complete Finnage
Nice, Streamline Body

Signs of a Sick Fish
Struggles to Swim
Distracted/Uninterested
Eats Little or Nothing
Faded Color/Grayish
Fins Stringy/Clumped
Bloated/Underweight

Please be aware that certain symptoms can point to many different illnesses. Investigate your betta’s illness very carefully before medicating, as treating for the wrong illness can be especially stressful for the betta. Please note that all cures provided are not foolproof and HB is not responsible for the loss of your betta.

Listing of Fish Symptoms & Illnesses:

Water in Fishtank is Too Cold
Symptoms: Loss of color, clamped fins, lethargic. (Be aware these symptoms may also indicate further illness or inadequate water conditions, but adjusting temperature is the logical first step to try to eliminate the problem).
Fix: raise the temperature of your betta’s tank to 80 degrees Fahrenheit

Columnaris
Symptoms: Fuzzy, cotton-like substance attached to body (looks like fuzz or lint), clear or white stringy material hanging from the body, erosion of the gills, heavy breathing, pinholes appearing in fins. Usually effects the mouth or head region. Also may appear as yellowish, white, or greyish areas on the skin, often surrounded by redness.

Constipation
Symptoms: Abnormally swollen abdomen. All other activity is usually normal.
Fix: View our Constipation Article

Dropsy
Symptoms: Largely blown-up/swollen appearance, pine-coning of scales away from the body, loss of appetite, lethargic.
Fix: View our Dropsy Article

Egg Bound Female
Symptoms in Female Fish: swollen abdomen, trouble swimming, loss of appetite, lethargic.

External Parasites
Symptoms: Rapid darting, scratching against tank decorations, heavy breathing, possible physical indication of parasites, clamped fins.

Fin & Tail Rot
Symptoms: Black tips, holes, or tears in fins that appear to be getting worse. Redness or bleeding of fins may occur in severe cases.
Fix: View our Fin & Tail Rot Article

(True) Fungus
Symptoms: Gray or white slimey looking material on the skin, may eventually turn into cottony-looking growth (distinct hair-like filaments).

Gill Disease
Symptoms: Swollen and/or discolored gills, erosion of gills, heavy mucus production in the gill area.

Ich
Symptoms: Looks as though fish has been sprinkled with white grains of salt, rapid darting, scratching against tank decorations, heavy breathing, loss of appetite, clamped fins, lethargic.
Fix: View our Ich Article

Internal Parasites
Symptoms: Weight loss for no reason, white or stringy feces.
Fix: View our Internal Parasites Article

Poisoning
Symptoms: Heavy breathing, rapid darting, try to jump out of tank, discoloration of gills, red streaking of body, loss of appetite, lethargic.
Fix: Immediately determine quality of water in tank. Did a chemical get in the tank? Did you forget to add water conditioner? Remove fish and place in bottled spring water with water conditioner at proper temperature until tank water is determined safe.

Popeye
Symptoms: Cloudy, protruding eye(s), large bubble covering eye area.

Septicemia
Symptoms: Bleeding or red streaks along the body or fins.

Slime Disease
Symptoms: Excessive slime coat mucus production, white stringy strands hang off of body.

Swim Bladder Disorder
Symptoms: Swollen abdomen, difficulty swimming upright, floating sideways at the top or hovering along the bottom of the tank.
Fix: View our Swim Bladder Disorder Article

Tuberculosis
Symptoms: Swelling and scale protrusion, unexplained weight loss, skeletal deformity, skin defects, loss of scales, skin discoloration, eye protrusion, fin rot, loss of appetite, clamped fins, lethargic. This illness is rare.

Please note: Humans are susceptible to this illness. Please handle fish items with care, wear clean gloves, and wash hands thoroughly if you suspect your fish may have TB.

Tumor
Symptoms: Abnormal lump or growth on the body, growing in size.

Velvet
Symptoms: Looks as though fish has been sprinkled with a gold dusting, rapid darting, scratching against tank decorations, heavy breathing, loss of appetite, loss of color, clamped fins, lethargic.
Fix: View our Velvet Article

View Healthy Betta’s Aquarium & Fish Medication Dosing Made Easy for simple 1-gallon fish tank medicine doses.

We all know the complications that can happen when you take a betta into your home. Most betta pet owners do not keep their bettas in large tanks and many times, the medications only give dosage instructions for 10 gallons or more. We hope this page can help you understand what each medication can do for your betta as well as how to properly medicate your betta.

Note: this is not a complete listing of medications, but it is constantly being updated.

Important Notes about Medication:
1.) Do not medicate a betta unless you are positive what his or her symptoms are. Medicating a fish for the incorrect illness may cause them unnecessary stress. Also, try to medicate with the least amount of medications as possible.

2.) Always fully complete a round of medication for the recommended time period, even if the fish appears to be better before the period is over.

3.) Be aware that some medications may affect the biological filter, live plants, and other tank mates such as snails. Always take proper procedures to understand how each medication should properly be used for your tank. A smaller hospital tank is good to have on hand to treat sick fish in.

4.) As a general rule, it is usually safe to mix medications made by the same manufacturer although you should always check the package for recommendations or warnings. If unsure if medications are compatible, contact the manufacturer through their website or hotline before mixing medications. An example of a safely mixed medicine combination is Maracyn I and Maracyn II, both made by Mardel Labs.

For More Information Visit:
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
Aquarium Products
Aquatronics
Jungle Labs
Mardel Labs
Additionally, Pets-Warehouse is a beneficial site for medications based upon category.

Maracyn:

Broad-spectrum, nontoxic antibiotic tablets for infections of body fungus (grayish-white material covering mouth; may spread to fins, tail, and body), fin and tail rot, popeye, gill disease, and secondary infections in freshwater aquariums. No water changes, pH, or temperature adjustments necessary if readings are in ideal range.

1 Gallon Dosage:
Do 100% water change. Dissolve 1 tablet in 10 teaspoons of water. Add 1 teaspoon of concentrate per gallon. Add 1 teaspoon daily of the concentrate mixture.

Manufacturer: Mardel Labs

Maracyn-Two:

Broad-spectrum, nontoxic antibiotic tablets for infections of fin and tail rot, popeye, gill disease, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and internal infections. Effective even when fish won’t eat in freshwater aquariums. No water changes, pH, or temperature adjustments necessary if readings are in ideal range.

1 Gallon Dosage:
For one round, dissolve one tablet into 10 teaspoons of water. For first day, add 2 teaspoons of concentrated mixture per 1 gallon of water. For days 2-5, add 1 teaspoon of the concentrate per 1 gallon of water.

Manufacturer: Mardel Labs

Tetracycline:

A broad spectrum gram negative antibiotic tablet for preventing and treating common bacterial fish diseases such as fin and tail rot, popeye, gill disease, and secondary infections.

1 Gallon Dosage:
Dissolve 1 tablet in 10 teaspoons of water. Add 1 teaspoon of concentrate daily.

Manufacturer: Mardel Labs

Jungle Fungus Eliminator (JFE):

An effective anti-protozoan, antibacterial treatment that is highly effective against a wide variety of diseases like fungus, gray slime, dropsy, open sores, bloody spots and streaks, fin and tail rot, cloudy eyes and swim bladder disease.

1 Gallon Dosage:
Do 100% water change before using medication. Use 1/4 teaspoon per gallon. For 5 gallons, use 1 teaspoon as recommended by the bottle. Wait 4 days for moderately ill fish and 3 days for extremely ill fish to repeat the dosage.

Manufacturer: Jungle Labs

Jungle Fungus Clear (JFC):

Fast dissolving pre-measured tablets used to treat fungus, fin and tail rot, septicemia, clamped fins and dropsy.

1 Gallon Dosage:
Dissolve 1 tablet in 10 tablespoons of water. Add 1 tablespoon of concentrate mixture to 1 gallon. Wait four days until you do a second dosage. If you must do a second dose: Change 25% of the water and repeat dosage.

Manufacturer: Jungle Labs

Maroxy:

A colorless medication used to treat true fungus, bacterial disease. Also protects eggs from fungal infection.

1 Gallon Dosage:
1 drop per gallon

Manufacturer: Mardel Labs

Melafix:

Antibacterial remedy that repairs damaged fins, heals open wounds and ulcers, stops mouth fungus, treats fin and tail rot.

1 Gallon Dosage:
10 drops per gallon. Be sure to purchase an eyedropper as the medication does not come with one.

Manufacturer: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals

Pimafix:

Formulated to work in combination with Melafix to enhance effectiveness against fish diseases. Treats fungal infections and both internal/external bacterial infections.

1 Gallon Dosage:
10 drops per gallon. Be sure to purchase an eyedropper as the medication does not come with one.

Manufacturer: Aquarium Pharmaceuticals

Aquari-Sol:

Easy to use liquid medication that prevents and cures ick (ichthyophthirius) velvet and protozoan disease.

1 Gallon Dosage:
2 drops per gallon daily until illness is gone. With ick, raise temp of tank/bowl to 85 degrees Fahrenheit if possible.

Manufacturer: Aquarium Products

Maracide:

Concentrated drops for use against ick, trichodina, chilodinella and related parasites.

1 Gallon Dosage:
One drop per gallon for 5 days or until parasitic symptoms are gone.

Manufacturer: Mardel Labs

Coppersafe:

Chelated copper treatment for ick, flukes, anchor worms, velvet, protozoan diseases and other external parasites.

Manufacturer: Mardel Labs

Jungle Ick Guard:

Clears ich, also guards against secondary infections as a result of wounds left by the ich parasite. No need to raise the water temperature. Use Ick Guard II on small, weak or fish with missing scales.

1 Gallon Dosage:
Squirt 1 teaspoon of JIG into 10 teaspoons of water. Add 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. After day 1 dosage, change 25% of the water and repeat dosage daily until ick is gone.

Manufacturer: Jungle Labs

Jungle Ick Guard II:

Clears ich for scaleless, small, or weak fish. Also guards against secondary infections as a result of wounds left by the ick parasite. No need to raise the water temperature.

1 Gallon Dosage:
Squirt 1 teaspoon of JIGII into 10 teaspoons of water. Add 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. After day 1 dosage, change 25% of the water and repeat dosage daily until ick is gone.

Manufacturer: Jungle Labs

Dip-A-Way:

A disinfectant for fresh and marine fish as well as a dip treatment and prevention of bacterial, fungal and parasitic diseases on aquarium fish.

Dosage: 1 tablespoon of dip to 8 ounces of fresh fish-safe water. Use when receiving new fish (as a preventative) and when disease occurs (as a control). To control infections on fish, dip the fish daily until results are obtained.

Manufacturer: Aquatronics

Clout:

For the treatment of parasitic and protozoan infestations of freshwater and saltwater aquarium fish. Treats: Ick, Hydra, Leeches, Planaria, Hexamita, Epistylis, Trichodina, Tetrahymena, Body Fungus, Argulus (Louse), Flukes and Anchor Worms.

Manufacturer: Aquarium Products